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Nicole Ezeh: Low Porosity Hair? Here’s How To Get The Moisturising Done Just Once a Week



dreamstime_l_56932301Sounds impossible, right? Yeah well, LoPo sisters can stay five to seven days without moisturizing. This can be achieved using methods and products that lift and penetrate the hair cuticles respectively.

Low Porosity hair has tightly-bound and closed cuticles. This makes washday seem like a marathon race. The human hair has a pH value of 4.5 – 5.5. The pH value of low porosity hair is very low (acidic) and anything acidic causes our hair cuticles to contract. So, that basically means the cuticles are closed at every point in time. The idea of the hair staying moisturized for a week applies when you successfully lift the cuticles thereby getting moisture into the cuticles before they re-contract. The contracted cuticles stay closed making it impossible for moisture to escape keeping the hair moisturized all week.

Characteristics of Low Porosity Hair

  • Hair takes a long time to dry
  • Products build up on curls rather than get absorbed
  • Natural oils don’t penetrate but sit on the hair
  • Hair takes much longer to get saturated when you wet it with water

How to Maintain Low Porosity Hair

There are different methods to be used in your regimen so your regimen may need to be tweaked or changed entirely to suit your hair’s needs. Let’s look into a few ways to rectify this situation:

Deep Condition With Heat
Low porosity hair, unlike other porosity types, needs heat for the cuticles to lift and for water and products to penetrate. Heat, in this context, does not apply to flat-irons or blowdryers but warm moist heat. Using steamers or heating caps or even blow dryer attachments for 15-30 minutes allows the cuticles to open so that the goodness of the conditioner can get into the hair strands. In our part of the world, these are not readily accessible so you can easily double your processing cap with a grocery bag and layer on a cotton shirt to increase the heat production. Let it sit for about two hours since body heat is not as hot as artificial heat. Prepare your deep conditioner with a teaspoon of any mentholated essential oil (Silverbird is super cheap) to generate more heat.

Washing should also be done with warm water and most importantly, do not do your last rinse with cold water. Low porosity hair does not have the luxury of ‘shocking’ cuticles closed because they are slightly open and that is as open as you can get them. So, washdays should consist of warm water only. Even if you do any additional rinses, (tea, apple cider vinegar, rice water, oil), do it while the rinse is warm. If your hair, by any chance, needs additional moisture mid-week, the L of your LCO method should be warm water.

Use Alkalized Water/Alkaline Products
This comes in when you want the cuticles to lift a little bit more. LoPo hair is acidic so anything alkaline raises the cuticles. Soak your hair in alkalized water for 15-20 minutes. Just pour the water like you would a rinse, massage it in and let it sit. DO NOT RINSE OUT. Here are two ways you can alkalize water:

– You can add 5 tablespoons of baking soda to 1L of water to alkalize it. Strain with a cheese cloth and use. Adjust the measurements according to your needs. Simply put, a tablespoon to 200mls or a cup of water

– Cut two lemons or four lime fruits into eighths and fourths respectively and soak in a pitcher (64oz/half a gallon) of water and leave overnight. Strain and use. Simply put also, a lemon/two lime fruits to a quart (32oz) of water. Do not heat the water.

Alkaline Products that can also be used to lift the cuticles include Bentonite Clay (pH 9-10), Rhassoul Clay (pH 7) and Castile Soap (pH 9)

Moisturize Immediately After Rinsing Out Your Deep Conditioner Using The LCO Method
Liquid, Cream, Oil works best for LoPo hair than the popular LOC method. After rinsing out your deep conditioner with warm water and if you like to be a little extra, soaking your hair in alkaline water, squeeze out the excess water, blot lightly with a cotton t-shirt not a towel and then apply your leave-in, cream and oil. Don’t blowdry after moisturizing. Air-drying is best but if you must, use cold air because hot/warm air will reopen the cuticles causing all the moisture you worked hard to get in to escape.

Clarify Weekly
Moisturizing shampoos are not advisable for LoPo hair because products tend to clog the cuticles easily leading to dry, itchy scalp and dandruff. In extreme cases, hair loss occurs also due to product buildup. A clarifying shampoo should be on hand for a LoPo girl or gentle cleansers like a Bentonite Clay, Aloe juice and ACV mixture. If you are afraid of the sulfates, melt a bar of black soap in 2L of warm water and add three tablespoons of your favorite oils and a tablespoon of vegetable glycerin. This shampoo is an amazing cleanser. Castile soap is also another awesome cleanser. It is alkaline so it lifts the cuticles and cleanses at the same time.

Here is my recipe for making Castile soap shampoo:

  • 8 oz water
  • 4 oz Castile soap
  • 1 oz olive oil
  • 1 oz coconut oil
  • 2 tablespoons peppermint/eucalyptus/tea tree essential oil. Any one will do

Shake well before use. This should be enough for four/five cleanses. Shampoos are for the scalp not for the hair strands so be economical. Co washing can be done during the week but these cleansers should be used on washdays. Mix one part conditioner with three parts warm water when cowashing for better results.

Protein Treatments Are Unnecessary
Eggs, Mayo and heavy protein treatments like Aphogee 2-step treatment are unnecessary for LoPo hair. Wait! Don’t eat me yet! Protein treatments are done to strengthen the hair cuticles and make them to lie a little flatter and LoPo hair has cuticles that are already flat and compact. So, what exactly are you treating? They are too bulky/heavy to get into the cuticles anyway so like I said before, unnecessary.

There are only three kinds of proteins light enough to penetrate LoPo hair:

  • Silk Amino acids
  • Hydrolyzed Keratin
  • Wheat Protein

These proteins can be gotten from leave-ins, stylers, deep conditioners or even moisturizers so invest in products with large amounts of such proteins and count that stress out of your regimen. Avoid products with silicones, mineral oil, petrolatum etc as they clog the cuticles.

Incorporate Humectants Into Your Regimen
Humectants like honey, panthenol and glycerine help add moisture to the hair. Use honey and glycerine for your hot oil treatments and deep conditioning. Glycerine is only suitable for the rainy season as it does the opposite of it’s job during the dry season. Humectants attract moisture from the atmosphere to the hair. BTMS (Behentrimomium Methosulfate) is a humectant also but is not ideal because it is silicone-based.

Use Light Products
Low porosity hair needs light creams, stylers and oils. Even if the deep conditioner that you have now/works best for your hair is thick and creamy, you can loosen it by adding oils and honey before use. Coconut, jojoba, grapeseed and sweet almond oils are ideal. Whipped butters are also great. You need your products to be as loose and light as possible to ensure penetration into the cuticles. Branded products like Cantu shea butter coconut curling cream is ideal. Heavy oils like castor oil will just sit on the hair without getting absorbed. Heavy-handedness is not advisable also. A little goes a long way.

This is all I have on this type of hair porosity. I hope you picked up a few helpful tips here. Time to banish dry, hard hair forever. You can add more tips if you have any.

Next up is High porosity. Peace and blessings!

Photo Credit: Dreamstime

A botanist, a practising microbiologist and a huge natural hair enthusiast committed to teaching Nigerian women about natural hair. Tweet at me: @_neekohl


  1. onetallgirl

    July 1, 2016 at 7:54 pm

    Good tips thanks for the post! I have a question, how often should one use bentonite clay on their hair?

    • nicole ezeh

      July 4, 2016 at 1:24 pm

      Once a month is fine

  2. Tracy

    July 2, 2016 at 12:09 am

    As a low porosity hair gal, i have tried everything you recommend and they work great except that coconut oil part. It makes my hair as dry as hay. I spent so long using it and wondering why my hair was so dry and crunchy. So that part I would advise folks to be careful about.

    And yes..there is no need for protein treatments for our hair. Shea Moisture’s low porosity line is the best thing i have ever used on my tresses. Just my recommendation.

    • nicole ezeh

      July 4, 2016 at 1:22 pm

      Yeah, some natural hair actually abhor coconut oil. Thanks

    • Charmaine. Russell

      March 27, 2018 at 5:51 pm

      Use Babassu Oil instead!! You can also use “fractioned” coconut oil.

  3. Lawan

    July 2, 2016 at 9:16 am

    Don’t plagiarize!
    It’s okay to state where you got some of your info from
    I was reading on porosity on Bellanaija and decided to google for more info and I found this link
    Only for me to see similarities uhm stop this guys

    • nicole ezeh

      July 4, 2016 at 1:21 pm

      Apart from the characteristics of lopo hair, what else was on ouidad? So i spent a month gathering information and you’re telling me I get my info from a site about white people’s hair?

    • Catherine Butler

      November 30, 2018 at 3:03 pm

      There are similarities in how we wash our hair, our bodies, cook, study, clean house, darn, even how we look, etc. That doesn’t mean it’s plagiarism. Everytime you tell someone something or answer a question, I’m sure that you’re not saying where you learned or heard it. It’s like you’re attacking her for some reason. Nothing positive to say, uhm, you should stop Lawan!

  4. Dale

    July 3, 2016 at 11:34 am

    I love, love and love this write up. ??Away to find out if I have low porosity or high porosity hair.

  5. Dale

    July 3, 2016 at 6:26 pm

    My hair strands have been in water for about three hours and still floating, isn’t there a problem? ?

    • nicole ezeh

      July 4, 2016 at 1:23 pm

      Lmbo. No, there isn’t. I wanted to cry when I tested for mine. Just try to do all these tips on washday. It works for me

  6. sonia

    July 6, 2016 at 7:34 pm

    I av LOPo hair n I ll try out d alkaline treatment. Tanks a lot fr d article.

  7. Monique

    August 10, 2016 at 11:56 pm

    I read somewhere about the Cherry Lola Treatment which involves baking soda, liquid aminos and full far yoghurt as the three basic ingredients. Have you tried it before? Did it rock for you?

    • nicole ezeh

      September 12, 2016 at 2:04 am

      I haven’t but Lopo girls praise it a lot. That’s funny, I was planning to do it soon when I have time. It’s an awesome protein treatment

  8. Dee one

    August 11, 2016 at 5:42 am

    I have low porosity hair ( mine should be no porosity hair if there’s something like that) and I’ve been doing the wrong things except for the LCO method… Final rinse with cold water, egg and mayo deep conditioning treatment, I even bought the aphogee protein treatment but never used it and was also planning on getting aloe vera gel…. This article has been extremely helpful and I’m going to work on changing my hair regimen. Thanks

    • nicole ezeh

      September 12, 2016 at 2:06 am

      You’re welcome. I made the same mistakes too. It’s okay. This journey is one in which you learn everyday

    • Charmaine. Russell

      March 27, 2018 at 5:53 pm

      You were doing everything someone whit high porosity hair should be doing!?. Thank goodness you saw this post!

  9. Darline

    September 3, 2016 at 9:02 pm

    Best info that I’ve found so far for my LoPo hair. Many thanks.

  10. Obie

    September 8, 2016 at 5:43 pm

    Pls wat can I use as DC, cos i’ve bn usin Hair mayo wkly, yet it still breaks n hard as rock. Newly diagnosed LowPo

    • nicole ezeh

      September 12, 2016 at 2:07 am

      Check my recent article. It’s about deep conditioner recipes but concentrate on bananas, avocadoes and yoghurt. They are awesome for LoPo hair

  11. Jennifer Johnson

    November 7, 2016 at 3:59 am

    My regimen is as follows: bentonite clay mix with grape seed oil, let sit for 20 minutes, rinse with warm water, deep condition, sit under hooded dryer for 30 minutes, rinse with warm water, Apple cider rinse, rinse with cold water, loc. I was reading another article, and I was told to rinse the Apple cider with cold water is that so?

    • Nicole Ezeh

      November 8, 2016 at 5:50 pm

      Hey JeN, Cold water should not touch your hair at any point and, this is totally optional but warm tea rinses can be substituted for the ACV rinse before deep conditioning but everything liquid should be warm never cold. I love your regimen btw

  12. Kyera

    February 14, 2017 at 6:51 pm

    This information was so useful! Thanks a lot!

  13. Christy

    April 2, 2017 at 4:44 pm

    Hello, thanks so much for this information! It’s a great help, and I love how in depth you go.

    I just had a question about using Castile soap to clarify – after doing so, because of its pH levels, should anything be done to balance that out for the hair, as I imagine its levels will have changed to some degree? For example, I know some try to balance such by afterward doing an acid rinse, but also know that would undo the work done to open the hair cuticles, so what, for a weekly regime, should a Castile soap wash be followed up with for Lopos?

    I currently use Chagrin Valley shampoo bars (as a sort of cowash), which seem to be pretty pH balanced, but being shampoo bars, they don’t clarify. I’m considering clarifying weekly now, though, as I haven’t been in the past since starting on my natural hair journey unaware of the ins and outs of such, and it’s been problematic, as expected. So I’d be going from once a month, to either weekly or twice a month, and am just unsure where to fit it in into the normal weekly regime, as I fear that cowashing with the shampoo bar would undo the efforts of clarifying.

    I know I’d clarify first, but if I follow my DCing with the final step of LCO, as advised, do you think it’d be of benefit to use the shampoo bar between the clarify and DC steps? Or should the cowash go somewhere else? For more info, I’m transitioning to natural, but my hair’s 4C, lopo, coarse, medium length, and high density.

    Also, regarding the protein treatment, do you have any thoughts on the Cherry Lola Treatment (the version that’s comprised of the following ingredients: Greek yogurt (2 cups), Baking soda (2 tbsp), Organic apple cider vinegar (2 tbsp), Raw coconut liquid aminos (2 tbsp), Raw honey (1/2 tbsp), Unsulfured molasses (1 tbsp), Half an over ripe plantain or banana, Avocado (3/4 tbsp))?

    Thank you again, for all of your help.
    I’m so happy to have come across your site!

    • Nicole Ezeh

      April 26, 2017 at 11:57 am

      If you’re really worried about the pH balance, I’ll advise mixing aloe gel with your Castile soap. Better still, you could loosen the Castile soap with water to drop the pH levels a bit. These are options left for you as a person to explore because castile soap’s high alkaline levels are what Lopo strands crave. So, You do not need any after-wash rinse to balance your hair’s pH. Lopo cuticles are slightly open so it’s not something to be worried about. Just applying your products after washing seals your cuticles right back. Clarifying once a week is great but you should keep baking soda far away from Lopo hair. It’s acidic and drying to the hair. You can use everything else EXCEPT the baking soda for the Cherry Lola caramel treatment. Apple cider vinegar in such amounts do not matter. Just don’t go overboard. This is all over the place, I’m sorry. I hope you got the message though.

    • Christy

      May 1, 2017 at 7:21 am

      Not all over the place at all 🙂 Thank you again, so much for your help. I look forward to finally settling on a regime I can stick to, and your assistance has been invaluable to such. I’ve been recommending your blog and can already say that you’ve helped others I know, too; your answers to me, and elsewhere are appreciated. ^_^ Have a wonderful day!

  14. Anna

    April 18, 2017 at 6:59 pm

    So…what does one do in the bone-dry winter time?

  15. Maryam

    April 28, 2017 at 2:02 pm

    Hello i find your article very informative and u said protein treatment aren’t necessary but can you do theprotein treatment like once in a month to strengthen your hair and i don’t get the air dry with “cold air”.thank u

    • Nicole Ezeh

      June 7, 2017 at 3:35 pm

      I honestly haven’t paid attention to protein treatments since I learnt I have Lopo hair. I still maintain it’s not necessary but it’s up to you. There is the warm, cold and hot air settings on a blowdryer. I was talking about drying with the cold air setting.

  16. Peggy

    May 14, 2017 at 4:38 pm

    I would like to know why you’re mixing acv with rhassoul ? When rhassoul raise your cuticle (what we want ) and acv closes them .

    • Nicole Ezeh

      June 7, 2017 at 3:40 pm

      THANK YOU, Peggy. I commented above that you learn in this journey everyday. I had to ask myself that question after I wrote this article. I was just following the crowd (which I abhor) on youtube and turns out they were wrong. I now make my clay mixtures with only water (warm water is ideal), clay, honey and an oil. Thank you again.

  17. Aisha

    June 10, 2017 at 11:23 pm

    Thanks so much for this article. Great info (your explanations are much appreciated); I don’t feel helpless and frustrated anymore.

  18. Shantayae

    June 17, 2017 at 4:51 am

    Hi, should the Alkaline water wash (soaking hair for 15 minutes) be the last thing we do? Or can it be done before shampoo?

    • Nicole Ezeh

      June 20, 2017 at 11:18 am

      No, it should come before moisturizing because any succeeding action will cause the cuticles to get sealed.

    • Nicole Ezeh

      June 20, 2017 at 11:21 am

      Sorry, it should be the last thing you do before moisturizing. I didn’t clarify that in my other reply. Thanks for reading

  19. Chigo

    June 20, 2017 at 6:05 pm

    What other branded product besides sheer moisture can i use for leave in conditioning
    What brand of shampoo and conditioner can i use
    I am too lazy to DIY, so
    I use vo5 clariying conditoner and cantu leave in conditioner, are they ok?

    • Nicole Ezeh

      June 21, 2017 at 6:02 pm

      They are perfectly fine. Know that your pocket size dictates what goes on your hair. Do not break the bank because you are trying to keep up with a low porosity hair regimen. YOU CAN BUY ANY BRANDED BLACK SOAP SHAMPOO. EDEN Bodyworks, TgIn are also great brands you can use. I’m not really particular about brands anymore but my hands are tied since you are not a fan of DiYs. I’m rambling so I’ll stop now.

  20. Morakinyo Abimbola

    July 5, 2017 at 2:48 pm

    I had my bc a month ago and since then been researching a lot on natural hair.My hair is lopo and this is my regimen.I do it fourthnightly .
    Wash with ghana black soap(already dissolved with hot water and soaked.with onions 14days earlier)
    Condition with shea butter conditioner
    Do a tea rinse(i use lipton) and rinse after 45mins with warm water
    Deep condition with avocadoes,banana,yogurt(holliandia).I do.heat it up by using a shower cap on it,then place a towel soaked in hot water on the shower cap and place another shower cap.
    Afterewards i do hot oil treatment with palm oil,coconut oil,honey and glcerin.Rinse with warm water.
    I then soak in blended onion juice for 30mins and inse with warm.water
    After i soak in warm rice water for 15mins and rinse again
    I do the final rinse with alkaline water(i use lemon or lime).I.seal with shea butter and coconut oil.
    I hope am on the track.Also is the palmoil thing okay?
    Pls avocadoes is going out of season,what can i use to instead.

    • Nicole Ezeh

      August 8, 2017 at 9:41 am

      Hi newbie, welcome to this awesome journey. When you wash with a shampoo, skip the conditioning and go straight to deep conditioning. Hot oil treatments are best effective when done on the night before washday. This can be achieved with only one natural oil or an oil mix. Your shampoo should only contain the soap, water and one or two natural oils. Due to how much onion juice stinks, it should be done before or immediately after shampooing. I have never tried the palm oil treatment. It just seems too messy and my mum will not find it funny if I did mess up her house. You can try it after a very long, extensive research. Calm down, you are just starting. There is a whole lot of time. I’ve passed through this new excitement phase before. We all have. Try to stick to something that works for your hair for now. The order for your washday regimen should go thus:
      Hot oil treatment overnight (night before washday)
      Onion juice treatment (completely optional)
      Warm tea rinse or rice water (Not both)
      Deep conditioning
      LOC method (moisturizing)
      I have an article which is linked above on 20 deep conditioner recipes. You can pick from any of those options. Have a wonderful and hiccup-free journey, sweetie

  21. Talieeya

    September 2, 2017 at 5:32 pm


    I just made the decision to cut my relaxed ends off . Now, I am having a difficult time moisturizing my natural hair. The product just sits on top of the hair. I’ve gotten some really good info here and other blogs but I am confused on whether baking soda is good or bad for the hair to lift the cuticles? Does the benonite clay or castile soap have the same affect on the cuticles and are those better options compared to the baking soda? Thanks in advance

    • Nicole Ezeh

      September 24, 2017 at 1:39 pm

      Baking soda dries the hair out; it is an acid called sodium bicarbonate and the general pH of low porosity hair is acidic so anything acidic applied on the hair leaves it dried out. When dissolved in water, it becomes alkaline and that is the only time it is advised to be applied. Strain the baking soda-water solution with a cheesecloth to make sure the baking soda at the bottom of the pitcher does not get on your hair. Bentonite clay and castile soap are alkaline and are perfect for acidic low porosity hair. They lift the cuticles and allow products get into the cuticles. Since these options are available, it is advisable to use them instead of baking soda. Another tip when moisturizing low porosity hair is to squeeze in the product after application.

  22. Lauren

    September 19, 2017 at 3:10 pm

    Thank you so much for this post! I have been searching relentlessly for the best products to use since finding out I’m lopo and you’re the only one I can find with homemade recipes. I’m starting my natural journey, not just by changing my hair but by changing the products I use on and in my body too. A couple of questions… what do you think about conditioning milks? So I be using those instead of leave ins? Do you have any recipes for milks? And what product should I be using for “C”? Also, how do I refresh my hair each morning without having to add more product to it? I BC a month and a half ago so my TWA is flat when I wake up each morning and remove my hair wrap. Just running my fingers through it doesn’t help to perk it back up so I’m not sure what I should be doing each morning. Thanks for all your help!

    • Nicole Ezeh

      September 24, 2017 at 1:47 pm

      Hey Lauren. I know about coconut milk and it strengthens the hair but does not leave low porosity hair moisturized which is the main purpose of using deep conditioners. That is the only conditioning milk I know. Now, to leave-ins, they are a must. they cannot be substituted. you can make them at home if you like but they are a must. For the ‘C’ of your moisturizing, I’d advise using a light, fluffy cream. I whip shea butter with a few oils or you can use cantu coconut curling cream as it’s very light. Even if you do not add more product to your hair each morning, you need to have oil on your fingers. The whole ‘perking up’ part is something you need to let the weather do or if your hair is long enough, a styling pik will lift your hair right up.

  23. Dee

    September 26, 2017 at 11:50 am

    I have low porosity hair and my hair loves a heavy oil like castor oil mixed with a lighter oil like jojoba, sweet almond oil or grape seed . I also tried every way possible to incorporate coconut oil and my hair hates it so I stopped using it completely. The castor oil mix does just sit on top for about a day but after the first day my hair just soaks it up and my hair stays moisturized for about 2 weeks without having to do anything to it, great when protective styling. It’s the detangling and getting the cuticle to lift that has always been the hard part for me. When I first went natural I stood under the shower for over fifteen minutes and I still couldn’t feel water on my scalp. My hair made the water bead and repelled it better than an umbrella. Most of the products that worked really well for my hair have been discontinued or had the ingredients changed on me so I pretty much have to DIY everything now.

    • Nicole Ezeh

      October 2, 2017 at 7:53 am

      Hey Dee, was/is the shower a hot or cold one? Coconut oil dries my hair out too so I discontinued after I found out. If castor oil moisturizes your low porosity hair, then by all means, go ahead. Every hair is different. This is how I detangle (may help you): I spray water on my hair using a spray bottle. I divide it into about 4-6 sections and wait for about 15 minutes. I then oil my fingers and divide each section into two or three, depending on the number of sections I made, and finger detangle a little bit. Then, I get a big comb and detangle further. When I’m done with that section, I twist it up and move on to the next.

  24. Cheryl

    October 10, 2017 at 5:47 pm

    Hello, I woke yesterday and decided to go natural. I had my husand cut it very short, peach fuzz short. I was in a panic after he was done. I haven’t been to bed yet because I was frantically looking for any and everything I can find to help me on this journey. I know absolutely NOTHING about being natural, but I’ve watch a few YouTube video and then I came across your post. Thank you Lord!!! And thank you Nicole for posting this. I did learn from YouTube that my hair is 4c and I have Low porosity hair, I did the test. What I would like to know is how do you start or structure a regimen? So many people are telling you what they do but no one actually say how to start a regimen. I know everyone’s hair and regimen is different, but how did you start yours is there a formula to this? People deep condition on different days than their wash day and prepoo before their wash day. It’s really confusing. Please help!!!! How do I start a hair regimen????

    • Nicole Ezeh

      November 7, 2017 at 2:12 pm

      Hey, Cheryl. Sorry for the late reply. Your hair regimen depends solely on your schedule. I don’t work on weekends so I have my washdays on Saturdays. It differs for everyone. Just understand that when structuring a regimen, there are musts and optionals. You must cleanse. Hot oil treatments, co washing, tea rinsing are optional and are not necessary each washday.
      If you are simple, your hair regimen will be simple. If you love frills, then it will be frilly. I think the best advice I will give you is to watch as much washday videos of 4c naturals on YouTube as you can and decide what you want; it is your preference that will trump everything else at the end of the day. I don’t know if this helped but I have learned to let everyone decide how they want this journey to be for them. Thank you for reading.

  25. Ij

    October 21, 2017 at 7:38 pm

    Wow great write up
    I have some questions please
    I have been natural for 10 months now
    Please can i do a hot oil treatment before i cowash
    Can i do a DC after a cowash
    Can i add enough EVOO to a cheap conditioner and use it as a prepoo overnight then cowash the next morning
    Can i go on with this regimen
    I cowash every 2 weeks, warm tea rinse, moisturizing DC then LCO
    I use black soap shampoo once a month, tea rinse, protein treatment, moisturizing DC then LCO

    • Nicole Ezeh

      November 7, 2017 at 2:23 pm

      You need to change your biweekly cowashing to cleansing. Cowashing does not rid your hair of products; cleansing does. In the course of your journey, if you do not cleanse enough, scalp irritation and hair loss will most likely occur. Your protein treatments, do you do them because they are necessary or you just do them? Your regimen is very simple, workable, convenient and beautiful. Just keep the protein treatments out and concentrate on moisturizing DCs. If you find that you need them, do them every six weeks. The protein treatments that is.

  26. Nicole Ezeh

    November 7, 2017 at 2:15 pm

    Hey, Cheryl. Sorry for the late reply. Your hair regimen depends solely on your schedule. I don’t work on weekends so I have my washdays on Saturdays. It differs for everyone. Just understand that when structuring a regimen, there are musts and optionals. You must cleanse. Hot oil treatments, co washing, tea rinsing are optional and are not necessary each washday.
    If you are simple, your hair regimen will be simple. If you love frills, then it will be frilly. I think the best advice I will give you is to watch as much washday videos of 4c naturals on YouTube as you can and decide what you want; it is your preference that will trump everything else at the end of the day. I don’t know if this helped but I have learned to let everyone decide how they want this journey to be for them. Thank you for reading.

  27. Nicole Ezeh

    November 7, 2017 at 2:23 pm

    Hey, Ij. You need to change your biweekly cowashing to cleansing. Cowashing does not rid your hair of products; cleansing does. In the course of your journey, if you do not cleanse enough, scalp irritation and hair loss will most likely occur. Your protein treatments, do you do them because they are necessary or you just do them? Your regimen is very simple, workable, convenient and beautiful. Just keep the protein treatments out and concentrate on moisturizing DCs. If you find that you need them, do them every six weeks. The protein treatments that is.

  28. Kell

    January 9, 2018 at 7:32 pm

    So sad, I found this article just days after buying hair mayonnaise protein treatment checked the ingredients it contains soy protein, didn’t see wheat protein. I love your article I’ve learnt alot from it. Having a simple regime and knowing what to do on wash days has been hell for me but thanks to this I don’t have problem again. I’ll vo5 + honey + olive oil as a deep conditioning treatment, at least till I get a store bought one hope this is okay

    • Nicole Ezeh

      February 23, 2018 at 7:10 pm

      Yes, it is okay. No need to feel bad; common rookie mistake we all make

  29. Allison

    January 22, 2018 at 4:41 pm

    In what order should these steps be done on wash day?

    • Nicole Ezeh

      February 23, 2018 at 7:13 pm

      – Hot oil treatments
      – Cleansing
      – Tea/Rice Water/ ACV rinse (optional)
      – Deep Conditioning
      – Alkaline water treatment
      – Moisturizing (LCO) method

  30. Chizee

    March 5, 2018 at 12:11 pm

    Hello Nicole… Thank you. I’ve gone through this post twice. And I’m a little confused…… You mentioned doing an alkaline water rinse (which can be be prepared with baking soda) after deep conditioning. And also say we should avoid baking soda cos it dries out the hair. Did I read well or am I mixing it up? Please clarify. Thanks

    • Nicole Ezeh

      July 8, 2018 at 1:32 pm

      Hi Chizee,
      An Acid+Water mixture equals an alkaline solution.

    • Nicole Ezeh

      July 8, 2018 at 1:50 pm

      Thank you soooooo much for this. Confusion will not kill me, honestly. Baking soda is a base, not an acid but for some reason, tends to dry out the hair of most ladies with the kinky hair type (according to what I read when I wanted to incorporate it into my regimen). I guess because it’s a weak base, I just don’t know. I have a funny brain: I just categorized it as an acid because of that. If you have mind sha to use it without dilution, why not? We all can’t be scaredy cats now, can we???

  31. Tricia

    March 25, 2018 at 7:19 pm

    Hi Nicole

    Is rice water acidic or alkaline? Also, shouldn’t it be the last thing you do before the final rinse with water, but before moisturising?

    Thanks for the info.

    • Nicole Ezeh

      July 8, 2018 at 1:36 pm

      I honestly don’t know about rice water being acidic or alkaline but I do know warm rice water left on my hair overnight gives me amazing growth and shine. Fermented rice water has a wonky no, nasty smell. So, I will advise to do it before deep conditioning or even cleansing. Skip the hot oil treatment and do a rice water rinse instead.

    • Christy

      September 5, 2018 at 5:08 pm

      Checking in again to read the comments, and say hello 🙂 I hope you’re well!

      Thought what you said about rice water was interesting – from what I understand, anything fermented ends up being acidic in nature, but that being so, it’s fascinating to note the effect you described it having on your hair when left in overnight. Is that something you’d expect from having an acid on overnight? I’m intrigued to try it now, as we don’t usually hear about it as a hair treatment where I live.

      After using it as a leave-in overnight, did it have any sort of negative effect on your normal wash routine, or did it only add benefits? And do you just use fermented rice water (no additional ingredients), or do you use a particular brand, etc?

    • Christy

      September 5, 2018 at 5:14 pm

      Oops, I’m sorry, I also meant to ask if you used fermented, or non-fermented, and if you just rinse your hair with it, and cover with a shower cap before bed, to leave it in overnight? I think non-fermented wouldn’t be acidic at all, but my other post’s reasoning was dealing with fermented, because I’d have thought something acidic like that would result in the hair drying out, but if under a shower cap overnight, maybe that wouldn’t be a problem?

  32. Beckie Walters

    June 29, 2018 at 5:46 pm

    Usage rates for essential oils for skin and hair care are at about 2% of the total amount of product. Adding 2 tablespoons of 3 essential oils to this shampoo recipe of yours is ignorant if not neglect. This can cause some serious irritation, that is why the usage is so strictly regulated. Please inform yourself before giving cosmetic recipes and advice. If someone uses this recipe and ends up in the hospital you open yourself up to a lawsuit and serious damages.

    • Nicole Ezeh

      July 8, 2018 at 1:40 pm

      I actually meant either of the three essential oils and I see now that I should have just made it a teaspoon but we tend to use Eucalyptus oil on new born babies a lot here in Nigeria without much dilution so it was a very wrong assumption that peppermint oil will not hurt. Sorry about that. I know better now. Thanks.

    • Tiana

      April 20, 2020 at 11:02 pm

      Please when you say rinse after deep conditioning, what exactly do you mean? Is it with ordinary water or shampoo? Can I DC before washing or after?

  33. sonja quilez

    October 30, 2018 at 11:42 am

    hello! thank you for simplifying how to care for lopo hair.
    i do want to grow my hair to right underneath my bum and wanted to try The rice water method. How can it or should i not for my hair type?
    people keep telling me that theres protein in rice water that can mess up my hair and have it fall off. which i would hate that.
    my hair is 3c , to my waist , thick, fine, lopo , dry , full of fairly knots and crazy amount of split ends. I dont use hair products, wash with castile soap or acv, condition with honey , oils and still looking for new diy conditioner and at this point just leave water and oils in hair then do braid outs .
    thank you, hope to hear from you soon!

  34. Claudia

    November 13, 2018 at 6:13 am

    This article is EXTREMELY helpful! Thank you soooooo very much!

  35. Brittany

    January 16, 2019 at 3:55 am

    Is rice water a good treatment?

  36. Tiana

    April 20, 2020 at 11:05 pm

    This is a life saving post.
    When you say rinse after deep conditioning, is it with ordinary water or shampoo? Do I DC before I wash or after?

  37. Olivia

    September 27, 2020 at 5:43 am

    i have a question? if i use warm water on my hair and then i use some rice water and then i use cold water on my hair. its good for my hair to moisturizing. i want your opinion.

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