BN Style Forum: Is Your Business In or Out? | How Do You Sustain the Relevance of Your Brand?
Posted on Friday, May 18th, 2012 at 1:20 PMBy Ijeoma Ndekwu
BN Style Forum is a platform where issues pertaining to the Nigerian & African fashion industry will be discussed weekly. We hope to encourage an open, honest & constructive engagement with stakeholders in the industry.
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Yesterday, I was compiling a list of designers currently operating in the Nigerian fashion industry and I came across an article that was featured on BellaNaija in 2006 highlighting 10 established designers. What I found most astonishing is 6 years down the line; only two brands have managed to remain relevant.
Statistics show that 50% of small businesses fail in the first five years due to a variety of reasons ranging from a lack of sufficient funds to bad management skills. What this suggests, is in 2017, half of the designers which currently operate in the Nigerian fashion industry will be relegated to a point of invisibility.
In acknowledgement of the unique environment in which fashion businesses operate in Nigeria, that is, lack of constant electricity amongst others, which result to high operating costs, our discussion tackles the sustainability of fashion businesses in the Nigerian economy. How do fashion businesses ensure their relevance in an industry shaped by constantly emerging competition where consumers are still being convinced to buy Nigerian?
What distinguishes Deola Sagoe or Tiffany Amber; brands that have managed to remain relevant for over a decade from the ones who will eventually crumble? After all, they were once new to the Nigerian fashion industry and its complex structure. In a recent interview with Ndani TV for Platinum Standard, Folake Folarin of Tiffany Amber states, “There’s this hype, popularity that comes with this business, that it is very easy to lose focus, and believe the hype, that you are the best thing since slice bread”. Could this be a contributing factor to the perceived failure? Are businesses sometimes so absorbed in the hype, the fashion shows, that the “business” loses its position as the focal point? Do they take the initiative to measure how the hype translates into sales, like they should? Do these businesses respond to changes in consumer tastes and buying attitudes?
The Nigerian fashion industry is experiencing a surge of designers, you just need to see my email box, and you will understand how fast they are springing up. Irrespective of whether their designs are great or not, I still ask myself; are these people prepared to operate a business in the Nigerian fashion industry, are they aware of the dynamics that exist and are they ready to put in the effort to ensure their relevance in the long haul or have they bitten more than they can chew?
The reality is, as a new business in the Nigerian fashion industry there is a high probability that in 5 years your business/brand might be a distant memory; What steps need to be taken to avoid such a disappointing end?
I’ve been told two heads are better than one, let’s discuss.
Would love to read your thoughts.
Get in on the discussion on twitter, Follow @bellanaijastyle
Photo Credit: iyap.ru
Tags: BN Style Forum, Ijeoma Ndekwu
very interesting….
Let us discuss gidi gan ni. First and foremost, Folake got it spot on when she mentioned this salient point;….’that it is very easy to lose focus, and believe the hype, that you are the best thing since slice bread’.
People need to get it especially the so called Fashion Designers that if you do shows and cant translate it into Sales, sorry whats the purpose of what you are doing – just to get popular.
What obtains somewhere else is you have Fashion Buyers, Retailers come to these shows and pick the ones they can do business with rather than the hype but unfortunately in naija once the next door tailor ooops sorry creative director abi fashion designer ni, is on one small screen they think they have arrived.
Especially those who have not stepped out of the African continent thinking they are the next thing to slice bread. Folake hit the nail on the head kampe ni, the shows are overhyped, the designers are two a dime in naija not to talk of your local tailors who are in direct competition. I have read comments here where people actually admit to copy photographs and give to their tailors in yaba.
So my point exactly is focus on your brand and research how your production or pieces can transform into sales, dont be carried away with the hype.
I attend fashion shows quite alot both here and abroad and the minute I leave I dont even think of some pieces because I believe there are better qualities out there than what I have seen.
I agree with Precious. Sometimes I feel some of us commenters take fashion more seriously than some “designers” featured on the site. At some point, it was like people were just trying to be popular so they chose “designing”, seeing it as an avenue to be in tv and the mags, rather than presenting something fresh or looking to create a sustainable business, or even filling a gap in the Nigerian fashion industry.
I understand production costs are somewhat high but c’mon! There was once a woman who “designed everyday clothes” that were at least thrice the price you’d find the same thing at Every Woman in Ikeja. If some labels took the Mr. Price/Woolworths model, it would last longer than this “couture” craze it seems every tailor-turned-designer wannabe has adopted.
I’m ranting, and there’s lots of air quotes, but this is important to me because it sucks that with all the possibilities, one has to look outside for affordable, well made pieces.
As an entrepreneur sustainability is everything. I think this is the list you are referring to http://www.bellanaija.com/2006/12/01/10-nigerian-designers-u-should-know-by-dammie/ I am sure the other designers were just exploring their talents and hobbies.
But why label yourself a designer if you’re just exploring?
That’s the thing that annoys me about some of these girls that come out as designers. In as much as I enjoy fashion, I know I don’t have what it takes to become a designer so I settle for being an avid consumer.
Thank you for this article!!
I think like many other businesses, fashion design labels also tend to incur a lot of operating costs in the aim to be known. We understand that people need to know you exist so that they can patronize you but organizing fashion shows and photo-shoots cost (a lot of) money and this is where people may tend to lose the plot and spend a lot of their capital instead of considering the full range of operating costs to be incurred before one starts to turn a profit. Another thing that may lead to fashion businesses going belly-up is that many fashion entrepreneurs might be trying to do a whole lot of things at once like designing the clothes and buying of the fabric/materials, sourcing for and maintenance of equipment, hiring staff (HR), organizing the marketing strategy as well as running their shop, which if they want to have it staffed and open at least 8 hours a day, 6 days a week is no mean feat (I run a shop and I know how much goes into it especially if you want it to be operational on the level of a proper store in a mall not the kind where you have 1 shop girl to work from morning till evening 6 days a week and will lock up the shop so she can go to the toilet or out for lunch and then what if she falls sick and can’t come to work?). Also consider things like accounting, your taxes that you will pay (not just taxes on your profit but just taxes to operate and taxes for your staff – FIRS will surely come knocking) as well as legal things (if you run a business anywhere you surely need legal counsel even just to register the business and rent a property to operate in). So these are some of the issues that beset fashion designers and might explain why you don’t hear of them after a while. A number of them try to run before they can walk, don’t plan properly and get overwhelmed. At the end of the day, a successful business is not just about hype and people knowing your brand but about being able to manage all aspects of operation efficiently and to consistently deliver consistently good-quality stock and service at the right price. It’s really not as easy as it may seem and it takes more than simply being a clothes horse or “having a passion for fashion”.
I had a look through the list. Another thing to consider: maybe we haven’t heard the last of some of them and they are just regrouping and re-strategizing for the big comeback. We can hope.
Its not just the fashion industry,it’s common with small medium scale businesses.in the fashion industry most of us start with the notion that so long as you make good clothes,people will look for you and automatically start buying your clothes.most of us don’t know the business side of it and and frankly don’t really to be bothered with it
I have made the same mistakes and have had to learn,I have taken myself to business school .fashion is a business period!production costs are horrendous in Nigeria,we don’t have distribution channels but a couple of people have realized what ave learnt and are working to make things easier for the next generation of fashion business men and women.
I myself made up my mind to stop complaining and instead be part of the solution.i teach what I have learnt in the decade ave been in this business.the fashion industry will grow and maybe work efficiently.
My advise to the up and coming designers,take it like a business!its no different from running a super market that will grow to a chain of stores.take business courses,ask for advise where ever you are stuck or confused.
I love this article.
Nigerians in general are too particular about fame they lose focus. We need to bare in mind that some of the designers don’t even design nothing, they only look them up and give their tailor.
A designer should stand out. Deola and tiffany dont go for all shows but the ones that will make a statement to their brand.
Again people should realise that the first 3 t0 5 yrs of starting a business is the time to suffer, roll over your profit into your business not into your brazillian weave, shoes and holiday trips.
There is just one young lady who I have seen that has the true passion like our fashion icons. She works hard and her collections always stand out, and boy does she go lengths to sell. I don’t want to call her name b4 una go talk say na publicity i de do,lol. She does not even know me but iv been watching her closely for future projects.
So yeah entrepreneurial skill is the main problem they have and not the hype.
Nice article, but am still wondering why they charge ridiculous amount even with ur fabric
well said Ijeoma. Starting, running and growing a business is not a joke. Many so-called “designers” seem to be in it for the “fame”. Very few seem to understand the importance of sales. LDA and TAN seem to be right track by retailing in Temple Muse and also on Yoox. The next step to increase sales might be introducing e-commerce on their own sites so that customers have direct access to the latest collection.
As someone else said, these things cost money, so growth will likely be bit-by-bit.
I experienced it personally but were back now.d factors responsible include;lack of management skills for running a successful business(a fashion biz is lik any oda biz which must b run well)
and what do you do
IS it possible 2 cr8 one’s design even why having a bath?cn this provide a landslide if carried out?thanks 4 d piece.
BN thanks for these weekly article on fashion. For me, all I want to do is to sell dresses. everyday designs with no drama to the normal everyday woman. Appearing on TV and the likes actually freak me out and with a degree in business management, I see my Clothing Label as a serious business. I’ve used almost two years strictly to build the brand with people not knowing the face bvehind it. My friends on facebook actually thought I was advertising for a friend when I started posting my link on my wall. I just quit my bank job to make more time to roll out my next collection to ensure that I make a bigger impact than the last one. In the next five years, I want to be the Zara in our part of the world with other lines like cosmetic operating under my holding company. I knew exactly where I was heading before I started and bcos I was and still operating from my savings and funds I made from my last collection, I dictate the pace of my business. I’m going to make this work!
hey Daisy pls link us to ur link or FB page cos some of us have been dying to get designs for the everyday woman at an affordable cost!
Hello Zee. Contact me via- onnasvintageloft@gmail.com for those lovely affordable designs. U won’t be dissapointed *wink*
http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Miss-Dee-Clothing/101916089902710. we’ll be launching our new collection ‘The Mixed Culture’ on the 18th June. don’t miss out!
great post
Truly an eye opener
You need to separate yourself form the rest by having a distinct signature.
This article is certainly an eye opener for upcoming tailors/fashion designers.Anything that is worth is doing is worth doing well.Even if they dave into fashion becos of fame that doesn’t mean it can’t translate into a successful business venture.I feel our fashion industry is just a joke at the moment and if the necessary foundation is not laid down for the fashion industry to stand on…fashion designers would still have bigger problems on their hands.Also we need role models and the need to encourage apprenticeship in the fashion industry,try to make the business of fashion interesting and fun.
Every up and coming designer should read this article and ponder. making it in the Nigerian fashion industry and staying relevance is not glamorous.
http://uberchicmichi.blogspot.com/
this is such a beneficial topic to me,u won’t believe i ran my boutique without receipts,taking regular stock of my goods and my employees gave discounts to customers themselves,obviously my business wasn’t growing,we were on a standstill and the thought of traveling all d time to restock my store as i didn’t think or no any suppliers then was killing my business,was still operating with my capital…..my rent was increasing all the time,i still had to put one and two to make my store attracting to customers….men,dat wasn’t good at all….i did had to learn from my mistakes and today i can see progress.so my advice to any business owner is to keep your eyes on deck,by the way i am a fashion retailer…