BN Style Forum: Are Nigerian Luxury Fashion Brands Unjustifiably Expensive? | Is There a Need to Adjust Consumers Psyche?
Posted on Friday, May 11th, 2012 at 11:30 AMBy Ijeoma Ndekwu
BN Style Forum is a platform where issues pertaining to the Nigerian & African fashion industry will be discussed weekly. We hope to encourage an open, honest & constructive engagement with stakeholders in the industry.
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The 90’s saw to the infiltration of luxury brands in popular culture, luxury goods transitioned from a state of exclusivity to a point of reach; there emerged aspirational luxury goods consumers. With luxury, there is a “promise” of a certain craftsmanship, an inimitable experience which validates its superiority above the mass market. Consumers buy into the idea behind the “promise”.
In my experience as the Style Editor of BellaNaija, I have observed that when I publish a feature on Nigerian luxury brands, comments on how expensive the pieces are, despite readers’ appreciation of the designer’s work, is always a reoccurring cause of concern and becomes discouraging for the consumer. What is seemingly inexistent is the “aspiration” to own these pieces. It is one thing to acknowledge one’s financial constraint in owning an immaculately crafted luxury designer piece and another when one recognizes a disparity between the price of the design and its “immaculate” finish. Our discussion tackles the latter.
Do we as consumers fail to acknowledge the relative exclusivity of luxury designs, which thus, justifies the high price point?, What is the price point border that distinguishes between “high street” and “luxury” brands in an economy where majority of its population do not possess a high disposable income? Or are our expectations of luxury not being fulfilled? Is the “promise” not being relayed or is it not persuasive or aspiration worthy? Or, in a larger scale, is the Nigerian Fashion Industry not responding to the core need of its consumers? If there was a booming mass market, will luxury designer pieces be so often critiqued? Or is the reason as simplistic as the aged argument of Nigerians not appreciating its own?
I acknowledge that I have thrown a lot on the table. However, essentially I am asking, is it an issue with the consumer’s psyche, the luxury label’s branding or the unresponsive Nigerian Fashion Industry?
Let’s Discuss!
Would love to read your thoughts.
Get in on the discussion on twitter, Follow @bellanaijastyle
Photo Credit: www.fashionavecpassion.com
Tags: BN Style Forum, Ijeoma Ndekwu
yes they are too expensive, but i guess that’s how they want to brand it. I think only those who make atleast 1million naira a year can afford their clothing, thats why, when i see a style i like, i take it to my tailor and ask him to sow one exactly like that.
I’m with you 100%. I will NEVER spend my money buying outrageously priced designer clothes when I can easily give my tailor the pic to copy the look for less. Much, much, much less!
My stake is on casuals (most regular wear u can rock)
Deola Sague’s polo t-shirt cost N22,000 d last time I checkt while Ralph Lauren’s polo is $70 to $100 which is btw N10K to N14K so pls which brand am I supoz 2buy? Let us b realist with prizes in many occasions its not abt d label after all t-shirts are meant 2b street wear.
I am a Nigerian designer (leather goods) and pricing has been a challenge. First I think the tag ‘luxury’ is quite tricky, and needs to be defined differently for emerging economies like ours, many of which don’t have any fashion brands up to a century old, as is the case for many other countries (their brands have had many years to be globally discovered, vetted, and trusted).
Still that doesn’t mean that Africa should write itself off the ‘luxury’ game. According to Kapferer, one of the first traceable signs of luxury as a social marker emerged in ancient Egypt, through the burial given to kings and nobles vs. other citizens.
Aisha and Funmi touched on a salient point: the supply for moderate-priced ready-made items in the Nigerian market may be growing more slowly than the supply for designer-priced ones. And Kerry addressed the issue spot-on: an entirely different scale (of funding, logistics and labour) is needed for operating a mass-market model. Nigeria just does not have that yet. Perhaps the government can help out here, but let us not get carried away, as there are sustainability issues that arise from the overproduction and overconsumption that plague countries like the U.S. For example, what happens to the unsold stock of Prada bags each season? They definitely don’t sell them at Marshall’s at half-off. And they aren’t shipped to Salvation Army, or to help a developing country that may be short of handbags. My best guess is that they end up in landfills, and that’s just one medium-sized brand.
I think price eventually sets itself based on demand, and many designers are discerning enough to listen. Even Emma Watson just closed up her fashion line ‘Pure Threads’ after less than a year because it failed to sell. These issues are not limited to the Nigerian market, but only time can tell. Still, I also admire that many Nigerian designers are aspiring to the top of the quality ladder in their choice of materials, craftsmanship, and distribution channels. It is better than if we were the go-to place for kitsch, unimaginative, poor-taste or poorly finished goods, and I think the quality of our fashion industry’s output is something we should be proud of.
@ Vivian are you based in Lagos? I live in the UK and I’m relocating to Lagos very soon.. Please can you give me your tailor’s details. Thanks ever so much.
I LOVE that so many of us are relocating back home soon! Nothing to do with fashion or this post, but good luck in your move! I will be home by this time next year!
Hello miss-i-no-do-kele (d@ was a mouthful!) Anyways, dr dz 2 sisters I know bout. Not tailors actually buh designers though they havnt done any press yet dey r TOO gud! Dey do anythng frm bridals to natives to casuals n evn office wear. U can reach ‘em thru ds line- 08033584587. Some of dier prevoous works r on facebook tho dey havnt uploeaded in a while. http://www.facebook.com/nneosemene. Or js search ‘nne osemene’ on facebook. U wnt b dispointed- I wasn’t!
@diva whisperer: thnx fr d info. Lukd up her profile on facebook n ws rly impressed with what I saw there.d prices r oh so cool. U do well!
Same here. Cos although i live in Lagos, i don’t have a good tailor that won’t collect at least 12k to create such style (luxury tailors abound). How e take different from the luxury brands we dey run from. Meanwhile, i’m sure you wanted to write N1m per month cos N1m per year won’t even think of clothes, trust me.
You took the words right out of my mouth, Wink wink. I was just scrolling down reading the other replies to that comment before I commented. N1m a year is N83k a month and by the time govt takes their tax, you pay ur rent, electricity, gen/diesel, water bill, food and transport not to talk of your kids if you have, ain’t nothing left for so-called luxury clothes oh, Vivian.
You mean N1million a month right? Cos N1million a year equates to less than N100K a month, and if Deola Sagoe’s Polos are N22K each, how many are you going to buy and still have change left over fro fuel and food?
In naija we too get sense, why spend 25knaira on an outfit you can get made for 3k or even less. @vivian I agree, I just copy the style, i dont buy the product. Their prices are for high ballers, which i no be.
There is a need for this issues to be discussed. If high street Is mass produced, the appreciation for couture or luxury pieces will be more.
Aisha perfect answer. The problem is that we do not have mass produced items in Nigeria and so no one feels the need to be different.
The fashion industry in nigeria’s biggest problem is that they dont know how to market, plus there isnt big department store like macys or jcpenny kind of store available in nigeria. If there were buyers, and competition and commercials to entice the public- plus they need famous faces to be associated with their brands. When I say famous faces, I mean well loved nigerian celebs that are loved both at home and internationally. If they get a good marketing structure going on i.e commercials, branding etc, then people would love to buy their brands. Take Globacom for example they use celebs to help market their products, super smart marketing idea. Its about generating competition also.
Nigerian fashion is out of touch with the reality of the Nigerian market. We have a country where 70% of the population live in poverty, and 30% of the remaining population are unemployed. Of those who have jobs, 90% of them are underpaid. That leaves a small market of high income earners whose tastes are more geared towards foreign brands. The success of nollywood and the music industry come from the fact that, though flawed, they are in touch with the masses. Nigerian fashion should take a cue from our movie and music industry. first create appealing products for the masses and as the economy and the fashion industry grows, luxury berands will naturally emerge. Right now, we are running in circles round a flawed business model.
I absolutely agree with you..
ur take on this is just d icing on the cake concerning this matter!!
GBAM!!! Every Sunday I’m looking at Thisday Style and I’m wondering “Na the same Naija we dey?”
Lol Ngozi but i get what you mean though , even surfing bella naija and checking out premiers/fashion events etc , you can tell that Nigeria as a whole is a country where people are living compeltely different lives to the average person. specfically, having lived in lagos and seeing all these events advertised and then hearing stories of no light , no water, etc i get the impression that Lagos is a tale of Many , Many Cities…
Honestly!The last time i was in Naija, after going trough hell at that shanty called Muritala Airport.I step put and i see this massive bill board for MTN Fashion week and it’s like wow!Is it in this same poverty ridden place!This same Naija!
First-class answer
What he said ^^^
@Emmanuel…your analysis is dead on AND it has applicability to other markets, not just Nigeria. When anyone wants to sell goods to a certain market, it is important that they ascertain that there are enough consumers that have the purchasing power to buy (and interest in) the goods they wish to sell. One can make all of the luxury goods they wish to make, but if no one has the money to buy, the goods will simply collect dust on the shelf. Another observation that I noticed is that it seems that Nigerian designers/labels all want to be high end as in “expensive” or be perceived as “expensive”. For some reason, there is this notion that “expensive” equals good or of quality. I have yet to read about a Nigerian designer/label that markets with the idea of being affordable/attainable.
its okay to produce luxury item for a certain class, but the problem with Nigerian fashion industry is that they all want to produce luxury items, there is a gap that needs to be filled. We need to have fashion labels that can cater for the middle class market; that is brands that would produce ‘affordable’ clothes. If not, the wide range of consumers that fall into this middle class category would continue to copy their style for their local tailors to sow for them.
I’m always amazed at how people forget that business is a numbers. There is no viability in a business that chooses to negate the masses. If 5% of the population CAN afford ur items and purchase it once, what makes you think they will be repeat customers? That is why am lot of these business close after 3-5 years.
The problem is the investment required to produce in mass… until that is solved designers cannot afford to provide cheap clothing. There is also the issue of platform to sell in mass… it logistic to distribute the cloths and market it is usually more than the actual cost of production… its not about the designers and their pricing, its more about a structure that allows different offerings and niches
Damn expensive. Make them wake up jor
There are different reasons why people buy luxury brands. Some consumers buy because that designer is “in vogue” i.e worn by top celebrities and stars.For example Christian Louboutin has been designing shoes since 1990 but its only in the last couple of years that he’s become a household name, mostly due to celebrities being seen wearing his shoes. The brand was already successful before celebrities came along, mostly because he had customers who appreciated the high quality and designs. The second group of customers are those who appreciate well made things.
I think the word “luxury” is abused in the Nigerian fashion industry. Luxury to me is not just about the design is more about the quality of the materials used and the workmanship. Personally if am going to be spending my money on designer, it has got to be top quality. There are only two or three Nigerian designers i would dream of spending my hard earned cash on. The quality of many designer products are not worth the price tag.
I will come back with some facts but first of all, most of these so called Creative Directors in Abule Egba, Yaba, Bariga, Onipanu etc that go on some funny shows are tailors or sewing mistress/master. There are only a few that can call themselves Creative Directors, its an oversubscribed term. Will come back with points re. overpriced v luxurious later!
There is nothing unique about the designs they make so why should i spend my hard earned 60k on a style i can get for 5k from my tailor? I can only buy these designer clothes when am going for a red carpet event and i get to say am wearing a Tiffany Amber design or something. Most of them are largely overpriced for the middle class.
With high prices should come a certain level of quality….especially with luxury brands.from my experience most luxury designers do not live up to their end of that deal. Their pieces are over designed with evidence of poor craftmanship. If we forget about the 70 percent who are in poverty (which is hard to do), the designers even take the wealthy consumers for fools most of the time. As someone who even wants to pay a high price for great quality and loves to wear Nigerian fashion, I am always disappointed when I pick up a handbag with poor stitching or a dress with poor tailoring and cut.
The other aspect of pricing is that customers expect a certain level of service when making a purchase. Other things come into play as well, such as surrounding, ambience, packaging, after sales service. There is also a lack of those things in the high end fashion industry in Nigeria. The pieces almost never seem worth it. There are of course a few designers I must exempt from this generalization.
Totally in agreement with you. I can fathom splurging on pricey high-end items once in a while. however I entered a ‘designer’ shop a couple of weeks ago and was shocked at the quality of some of the items I saw there. Ankara shoes for 21k were made of fabric which couldnt cost more than 1k a yard. One would think that for that price the fabric would at least be deluxe too!
I can understand you all..
Noting special abt d so called designers,jst d name,not so many celeb who wore dem look better than the regular girls on the street
This is a huge problem in naija and am trying to work on a new approach. Myself and a friend are opening a new store called Spunkk!, its a very low end discount retail store where we ll sell at essentially the prices of primark in the uk. Pls am welcome to ideas on helping this new brand. this is just bridge the gap between the rich and the poor. I think most pple have forgotten that over 50% of nigerians live on less than 2 dollars a day. thanks and your advise is highly appreciated! Regards
Hey Shawler,
I may be able to help you with fabric and production at competitive prices, please mail me at nicolitta@hotmail.com
Regards,
Don’t call it Spunk. Please.
Hi Shola,
In the light of the discussion, are you opening a low discount retail store that will stock Nigerian designers at those prices?…cos its also essential that the fashion retailers join in the combat of excessive pricing…I’m a designer based in Lagos and my next collection of clothing and accessories range from 3k to 12k…maybe we could work together!…and any other person as well…!! cheers!
As someone who owns a clothing label in Ghana, I just dont understand when other designers christen their labels as luxury. Luxury? To who? With which Fabric? But then again what can REALLY be described as a luxury product? When i wore my cousin’s Loubs, I thought it wont pinch like the shoe i bought the other day from primark. I’ll choose my regular Zara to these over-priced fashion items anyday. They’re just playing with your minds. My dream is to make my label a household name. I dont care if my dresses are worn by a lawyer or a broke student. All that matters is it should be of good quality and give me a decent return on my investments to keep me in business. Too much greedy people in business methink. And BN, blogs like yours are partly to be blamed. Giving these so called luxury brands all the space to strut their stuff on your platform whilst ignoring the ‘high street’ designers your cherished readers can afford to buy from. smh
Well said! What’s de name of ur clothing label? im from GH too lol
I agree with your last sentence. I’ve come across some talented designers that don’t have “influence” and do not label themselves as luxury brands but they have never been covered on BN. The only person that broke the mold which I remember is Akpos Okudu.
I would like to see interviews on high-street designers on BN, I see pictures of their booth spaces at the various shopping events that BN covers so it won’t be a stretch to contact some of them for an interview.
My opinion on luxury brands, both Nigerian and international is I can’t afford them full price but only on sale when the price is right for my purse. I’m not mad at anyone for setting the price points they do because at the end of the day they have to make a reasonable return on their investment as well. If shipping out of Nigeria wasn’t next to impossible I do believe Nigerian luxury brands would reach a wider market who would be willing to pay.
Funny thing,all thiss people commenting are running other kinds of bizz with ridiculus prices!! How do u want dem to sell cheapp without electricity!!!! Cost of transportation2! Dey will buy fabric,transport it…oh wait there is rent2pay!! Yall shd kip quiet abeg! Oh did I mention dey pay4 adverts???? Sleep plz
mass production? well that can easily be achieved by hiring talented unemployed and rarely employed nigerian tailors. create job opportunities. most of these designers keep trying too hard to get international western appeal, which is all good, but the price does not match the average nigerian salary. Have a brand researcher do field work for you, plan events, get other big companies to back your business by writing a petition to them. No body gets to the top by themselves, they will always need someone to help them on the way.
Jane i’m sure the tailor down the street sometimes has to use a generator to finish off sewing clothes but she never charges up to 55k. It does take a lot of money and investment to build a fashion brand cause there is a lot to take into consideration, there are the stylists, the designers, the fashions forecasters, the fabric and all and the consumer pays for it all but when you still put everything together a pair of jeans at newlook really never costs that much and even with profits placed on it. When Hermes makes a handbag he uses real leather/crocodile so you know you are not just buying a name but also quality. Now the Nigerian designer has a lot less to deal with because once their pictures are on bella naija they get instant adversing so they really don’t have to do so much unless they want to, word of mouth also helps a lot in Nigeria, light might be a problem but European fashion brands pay light bills (and heating) and yet they don’t charge an arm and leg. Pricing Ankara at 55k might not be a problem for you but if it can be replicated by moremi the tailor then are you really doing good business??
I think Nigeria needs high street stores, i also think we need to invest in Aba made clothes and turn it from what it is into Gold there is so much potential there.
@Shawler
Good luck to you honey, I’d love to hear how things go for you (drop your email if you can)
thank you Yemi, tell this Jane that lives in coookooo land. As if Chanel doesnt use electricity to produce her bags and clothes, but the finish, quality and craftmanship speaks for the price. Same ankara that you will buy in the market for 2k and sew for 3k you want to sell for 55k, awi tan one nearly compared herself to Burberry the other day without having a trademark on the material in question. The material wey dey market wey den don dubb tire. smh
Ermm Spunks, jare hola me, drop your mail here you are the kind of people I want to talk to, I am doing something similar as well soon, all the best to you. BN post my comment o, its an open forum discussion o, ehenn
There are some really insightful comments here. I think it’s already been said- the labels need to stay in touch with the masses.
the problem with the African fashion industry is the ready availability of tailors and reasonably riced fabrics which can be copied. very few people can afford these so called high fashion brands except for a few who buy mainly for show and to patronize their friends business. secondly while africans like to dress, most people are not really into luxury brands as we are into fine clothes and international exports.
lastly most designers are not that talented and merely copy western designs. if i see a truly unique design with an authentic African feel to it, trust ill get is but you hardly see such…we just like to follow oyibo people
honestly I look @ our designers and marvel @ their prices, even though I agree biz is not easy n Nig but to make a dress for N50-80k is ridiculous when my designer wl do much more, i wonder how they make their money, considering that these celebs wl only wear once for fear of been labelled re-rocker
i stl gel wt my taylors jare they r d best
Shawler I think u’ll find ur own market with the emergence of woolworths and mr price n Nigeria, there shd be a balance now but the deal is are people getting quality for their money wt these products? and with our population, d sky shd be ur limit!
Nigerians love to leap before they can crawl. Most developed countries focused on mass production of clothes and shoes before there was even talk of luxury item. We are so obsessed about catering to the wealthy in this country forgetting that the wealthy are perfectly capable of taking care of their needs. The money is in the needs of the masses. It’s hard to hear but these designers have misplaced priorities for an underdeveloped economy
Right on lady…right on!
Our retail line (which should b cheap and for everybody) is underdeveloped. Right now it is one item @ a time, we haven’t grown to the point of cutting 1000 pieces of the-same style in 2mins ie mechanized production. Until that happens, every item sold by our designers will be priced cotoure*ibo acent lol
this designers fail to understand the culture of Nigeria. Nigeria is a Reverse Ethnocentrism culture, we believe more and trust foriegn brand in terms of quality and high brand name. Nigerians are not willing to pay such high prices on local products, its only celebrities and the frds of the designer that will buy it but an average consumer in Nigeria wnt pay that high. personally i tink most of dis designers are exploiting with their over the top prices.
People buy the names not the clothes most times and it is *ridunculous*. I live in North America and I do not run after names but bargain hunt. if Iwas in Nigeria, I would not spend much on clothing either. love clothes but I am not gonna spend an absurd amount of clothes. Polo and the likes are low end names anyway. When you talk designers you talk chanel, prada, gucci , Carolina Herrera etc. The people who wear those na them sabi o. If you look good wearing whatever. that is what matters.
your question – essentially I am asking, is it an issue with the consumer’s psyche, the luxury label’s branding or the unresponsive Nigerian Fashion Industry?
My answer – its more of the issue of people cutting their coat according to their cloth. The few who can afford these things know where to get it. the infiltration of the broader nigerian market can only promote greed and obsessiion among those who cant afford these things. you go to Nigeria, see a masserati in VI, surrounded by 25 deadbeat danfos, 200 okadas,…however to my chagrin, the conclusion of many who witness that situation is “nIgerians are loaded”. the infiltration of brands in that country has deluded so many to think “Nigeiras are rich” no they aren’t. wealth should not be defined by the few luxury cars that drive thru lekki expressway nor the glamorous wedding galores often featured on BN (i love themn all so no offense Bella Naija crew. rather, it should be the mama bose, Nkiru the tailor etc to be able to run their business smoothly and proftitably. sadly, nigeria is not ready for the luxury retail shock its experienceing right now as there is a huge gap between those who can afford it and those who cant.
Nigerians will make mass produced clothes when there is 24 hour electricity! how can we if there is no electricity? I promise you, when that has changed, if it changes they will! With time there is going to be affordable designers, we just have to a little patient, I know it! Another problem is will nigerians buy it if they see they are affordable? Wont people say, that it is cheap abs quality? its not enough to just make affordable clothes, but would the clothes actually get sold out? We really have to be patient! What kind of price range are you looking for? Can you spend 5 thousand on a shirt? can you spend 7 thousand for a dress? because that is probably going to be the cost, are nigerians willing to pay that amount? because that money can be used to stock up your house with food for a long time, so what are nigerians willing to pay? Please i really want to see an answer for this ^_^ I am working on something for my people
That’s why designers like Jennifer Adighije will be making more sales than the bigger designers. I expect prices of clothes (not ankara o) to not be more than 30 to 35k at most depending on accessories. Rather most of them will buy ankara in bulk and sell the finished product for 60k, which is ridiculous and reeks of greed.
Tiffany Amber, Lanre Da’Silva and Deola Sagoe have lovely pieces in different fabrics but the prices are damn too high!
You don’t disguise yourself you are Jennifer Adighije, free advert abi, I have bought from you before and your after sales service was poor. You sold a dress for me at 35k before selling you kept on calling once the sales was over and the dress didn’t fit well you did not pick up your phone. So pple like you are also spoiling the whole mess or aint you house of silk.
Hahahahaha funniest thing ever!!! OMD!! This bella Naija we dey see things o! LOL for days………………this na red handed catching!
Wicked child!!! ;D
Please can sme1 kindly write the price range of what “too expensive* is for a dress, also write d price range for “normal price*…thank u,coz I’m getting confused here. In naira please
Correct me if I am wrong but the topic is LUXURY… Which means: not affordable for the average Joe!!! Therefore, I do not see the point of talking about poverty line or the average nigerian. Last time I checked, no one was complaining about LV/ Botega Veneta items not being affordable by the average people. The fact that the items are made by African does not mean it should be cheap: the creator wants to branded as LUXURY => EXPENSIVE. This is the chosen positionning: let see if it is sustainable on the long-run and if they will not create a more affordable line, as others did before them.
come to think of it, just look at the caption picture for this post. that says it all. we are discussing african and ore importantly nigerian desiners and you display an aditorial of a foreigh brand. this is why african designers go no where, because regardless of the quality, hard work and type of cloth they produce, people would rather favor foreign brands and designs. r beg me i would just stick to my regular taylor that i can trust and when i see a reasonably prices african piece for a designer,ill get it
too expensive, i got a Deola Sagoe pair of silk pants for abt 75k and a shirt for 65k. held myself from picking a dress for a 100k+.Had to check myself and put a stop to it. I’ll start buying Naija when the designers are more price friendly. the prices are the vogue kind of prices.. for a select few.
All of you that pay your tailors 3k! Haba!oya let’s calculate the average cost of producing an outfit1)3yards linning N300,2)thread-N50,3)zip-N50,airstay-N50 this is 450 o! I have not included transport nor even the women spend trying to make up their minds on what outfits to make.the tailor will buy petrol and repair the tired generator! Then fit you and whatever amendments required. Making clothes take time,a lot of time and money. Abeg if you can’t afford it pls quit hating and rambling on BN. Go and continue buying you primark n co. Every Nigerian woman wants to look different but looking different is for the rich only period!
That’s a very dumb thing to say!!! I know quite a number of people that keep up looking good and are not quite rich. its people like you that makes the world a difficult place to live in!
Joker!
@lanny “too expensive” would be an Ankara shift dress for 50k when only about 4 yards including pattern coordinating is being used and the cost for high quality hollandais Superwax is 21k(mind you,this type can be in good shape for as long as 10 years) sequins or whichever form of appliqué being used and lining etc 5k. A total of 26k. 24k is too much for a designer to take for sketching,cutting and stitching one dress! Normal price should be 8k with your material in urban places like abuja and lagos. In my hometown, any tailor that collects more than 2k will sew for himself alone…lol.
My dearest fellow Nigerians,l rilly appreciate u all 4 honestly expressing ur feelings toward ds major challenge dat we r facing in d fashion industry of ds nation…l as a fashion designer dat owns n runs a fashion brand called BASIGZ…[www.basigzonline.com]l understand it all…this is it;…our major challenge in ds country is our cost of production…l strongly believe that if d govt of ds nation dat we r paying huge tax to can in return giv us simple things lyk electricity,portable power supply n good road networks,d prices of our nigerian mmade goods will b reduced by half d price of wat it is now.secondly,l suggest strongly in situations such as ds that our designers shud also apply wisdom in creativity n also in marketing so as 2 enable us carry all our beloved Nigerians along bkos as a designer, until ur brand bkoms a household name,u r not successful as a brand…hence l recommend that each fashion brand shud hav 3 major lines of products namely;luxury,middle n affordable[or cheep]…wit ds,u can carry all Nigerians along.take 4 instance l hav 3 sub labels under d big basigz brand namely sapphire,diamond n green label…now each of ds sub labels reps d above mentioned classes respectively meaning dat everyone no matter ur class be it a celebrity or a normal person can afford 2 wear basigz cloths…my dear,ds wisdom has brot so much peace n good returns to my brand…n also fellow designers,pls kindly let ur luxury products quality,creativity, packaging n delivery always match up wit d price u placed on it…wit ds wisdom,believe me,my beloved NIGERIANS will not complain anymore…bkos we r good people,a great nation n l’m strongly convinced we love good things… cheers!
@ Jane, everyone is writing in even tones, which one come be your “obvious anger”?
Do you remember the days when … actually we still do it … where the more expensive lace is termed the higher quality, the more expensive creams are termed better, the pricier restaurants are preferred because they are “distinguished”. Truth is, the culture (very much like most other cultures) places a lot of value on items based on cost. In some places the not-so-rich have succeeded in carving a niche for themselves, but over-pricing still erodes their efforts. Example, the so called – rustic, natural, organic, rugged – looks in vogue in interior decor are from eras long gone when people made their furniture by hand/ themselves/ helped by friends & family/ the local carpenter or iron smith. But nowadays, these very “antique” items have been overpriced so much that you wonder if they were sent down from heaven.
I am so glad we are talking about this, I am starting mass production for a fashion brand similar to River Island, Oasis and Warehouse, so it is more about affordable fashion than about luxury. These products are going to be produced in Nigeria, I found a factory in Kano and Onitsha, they are relatively old but they have the machinery and the skills but they dont have the work. Most people complain about high production costs because they are doing everything themselves, which is not wise since most of it can be outsourced to factories and we do have them in Nigeria. It is all about taking the time to find them and do your research. It did cost a lot to travel round looking for these factories but it was less than the quote I got for organising a fashion show in Lagos.
Most consumers understand the truth which that the majority of the brands that class themselves as luxury as well over priced, imagine buying a dress with cheap fabric and poor finishing at N14,000. People are not stupid, if designers are going to keep paying themselves ridiculous salaries and charging ridiculous prices then no one is going to buy their products and rightly so. Quality is very important, if I sew my dress with a tailor and my zip breaks it is okay because I would fix it since it was cheap, but if I buy a dress from one of the so called luxury brands and the zip breaks, I would be unhappy and probably never buy from them again (my experience). For me high street in Nigeria, based on our economy is N5,000 for a dress with good fabric and designer prices at about N20,000 for a standard dress, then in between is where I place regular small labels. However, the regular small labels start pricing at N20,000, this does suits only a small percentage of Nigerians, who are their friends if I may add, that is why sustainability becomes an issue. Also, a lot of these brands are not known in Nigeria, only Lagos or Abuja, how can consumers appreciate a luxury brand if they are not aware of its presence. The industry is not very creative, it is always about fashion shows and parties, not really about exciting revelations and creations. We just need good designers to work with good business minds and change would be evident.
I know this is long but I am tired of the abeg them try mentality and Bella Naija needs to tell these fashion pr people to stop using words that dont match their designs to describe their collections, a long ankara dress with some sequins is not unique or evoking or fierce, it is what I wear everyday.
I love the work of Nigerian designers. My sister is a Nigerian designer and some discerning folks understand what this is: quality and uniqueness. Me too, I love quality and I love uniqueness, and I love a bargain – not only because I don’t earn a lot of money (I earn waaaaay more than most Nigerians of course, since most Nigerians rarely handle 1000naira, but not enough to buy stupidly) but also because I’m conservative like dat. That’s why I buy (selectively) from Yaba and all those other places you know.
Have you seen those ultrabright ultrafeminine plastic slippers and sandals in the past month or two? Here I was hoping it was a Naija design. (What is the history/source/company?) Not buying it only because everybody’s wearing it, but if everybody’s wearing it, that’s a business to covet, right?
power, thats the greatest challenge. Most brands are expensive due to the cost of production. i consult for local brands and manufacturing is the greatest challenge.
So it is power costs that is making Tiffany Amber sell a dress for almost £1,000? Enough of the excuses jo – Nigerian designers are unjustifiably expensive. #kapish
I know right?, that hideous peter pan jacket she has on yoox.com is over £900, that is beyond ridiculous, considering that its just ankara o, I have an online store myself and I know that people buy based on quality and uniqueness of the item , that’s why you won’t find a dress from primark on our website, not because primark is bad, but Nigerians have ridiculed the brand and are quick to call it cheap.
they have ridiculed the brand right, where is there own!
Nigerian fashion industry is definitely out of touch. They only care for people with big money buying their things. Here in America, you have so many options for an average American to afford things and still look good. Now, if you have extra money to buy designer brands, it’s up to you.
So, when I see these prices, I’m shocked and I’m thinking this must be a joke. How can you be selling high brand when majority of Nigerians can’t afford basic necessities. It’s ridiculous. Business is all about appealing to average because only a small percentage are above average. America is the way it is because of places like Walmart, Ikea, Ross, H&M, etc where poor, middle class and rich can buy things and will all be satisfied.
I will never waste my money buying these clothes, I have a good tailor who will make any style that I want at a good price. One of the things that many Nigerians lack is looking at things from a general perspective and using strategy instead of only thinking of how rich they will become. I have an aunt, who moved to Nigeria to open a boutique, where she was selling high brand. Now, she’s stuck because it’s not going how she wanted it to go. Do your homework first.
You are so right about America having options for everyone. There is a reason why stores like Walmart and H&M thrive: they are AFFORDABLE/ACCESSIBLE. Something that Nigerian designers/lables and boutique owners seem not to grasp.
@Lovely Grace Thanks so much honey! xx
@diva whisperer Thanks for the details.. Much appreciated boo xx
It’s simple- I’d rather spend my money on Chanel… Pricing must correlate with standard of living.
Yeah rite…In your dreams…..
Abeg gerrout!!!
I think the Nigerian Fashion industry is fast growing..ermmm, anyway like most of all the things Nigerians do, *overdoing* wud be top on the list. I think we need to start small and really good and work our way up the ladder (looking at pricing). Cos wen you work hard at perfecting your skills over a period, in the future (when we all get to a certain Greener pasture) it will be worth the price. So high Fashion, high pricing not just yet.
Thank you so much Bellanaija for posting this. The comments have just confirmed my suspicions about the consumer market in Nigeria. Looking forward to bringing the AsakeOge brand to Nigeria and creating a line that is accessible for all.
@Ada, looks like we are in the same boat. Am in the middle of starting a clothing line similar to Monsoon and Next, right now we are considering mass producing in China and lately Vietnam. Am really curious to know where these factories are in Kano and Onitsha because we’ve done quite a bit of research and nothing is good enough in my opinion. There’s no doubt that Nigeria needs high street brands but we lack the infrastructure needed for mass production of affordable clothes. Am hoping some manufacturers bring in latest machineries because with shipping and logistics in bringing those clothes in, the aim of selling reasonably quality and affordable clothes for the average nigerian may have been defeated. Heaven helps us in these climes.
I just think a lot of Nigerians in the fashion Industry lack marketing strategy. They feel the need to hike their prices and that proves quality. I can understand that there is a mentality that the more expensive, the more original and the fact that pple want their outfits exclusive in the sense that a few people can afford it meaning there is a higher chance that only that particular person would hv it but trust me that has failed a lot of businesses. Maybe you should consult me and you would be amazed.
*ready-to-wear dresses
The problem is ‘poverty mentality’. In a country where people are used to paying N3000 for a ‘tailor’, it is hard for them to appreciate the workmanship that forces a designer to put a N25,000 price tag on a dress. It kills me when i hear people say “my tailor can make it”. Wanna bet?
A lot of girls cannot recognise exceptional craftmenship if it jumped up and bit them on the nose. Those same girls would not understand why they should pay N6ooo for a silk blouse from selfridges. They would rather spend their N10,000 on 5 cheap tops than on 1 or 2 quality blouses. Yet they wonder how the ‘cream’ girls do it. They just prefer being cheap.
Fashion is fashion. The one thing different is that Nigeria fashion is familiar fashion. We all know how much 5yards of ankara cost in Yaba Market. So then we expect these familiar fashion costs to reflect reality. Umm.. .no. It is easy to question our fashion brothers and sisters, but ignore Gucci, Prada, Loubiton. That $1500 Vuitton bag and $1700 Loubiton’s nah, the same leather and plastic you see in Yaba, abi? Or is that bag magical and those shoes can make you fly?! So don’t vex over Naija expensive things, sha. Fashion is and always will be overpriced. Find your level. Keep it moving. That’s why I have 3 tailors. Thanks!
It is important to show appreciation for all the work that has been going on in the Nigerian fashion industry and to point out that this is not a bid to undermine this Industry. I have worked in many brand related capacities, and at the moment, i am studying to get a masters degree in brand management. I find this topic very interesting, as it is of personal and dissertation interest. The basic concept of Luxury is not just about pricing, but heritage, exclusivity and the ability to trigger a high hedonic value and experience in one’s target market. This is something that the fashion brands have not being able to truly achieve in terms of the Nigerian market, and this is by no means a total fault of theirs. The economic situation all over the world has made it difficult to achieve this, and it can be perceived even in global luxury brands like Louis Vuitton that have begun to subject their brands to a more retail experience. In my opinion, a lot of the supposed luxury brands have even become more of premium-priced, rather than luxury. However, their heritage and reputation has given them the advantage of a platform to continue to carry on as luxury so far. This said, Nigerian fashion brands seem to have over-short themselves in their claims of luxury, because, they simply do not have the platform to be recognized as such. A lot is expected from any brand that chooses to claim luxury, in order to charge a premium that the target market believe is fair, and most of it is emotional, built over decades. The fact that labour is also cheap in comparison to other parts of the world also serves as a disadvantage, because there are quite a number of very talented tailors in the country that can turn out this apparels for a better bargain. Luxury is expensive, but consumers find it acceptable when all the expected boxes are ticked. In the end, it can be concluded that the problem is as a result of a number of strategic issues, and the fact that these brands are over-priced simply seals their fate.
I’m afraid those insisting that Nigerian designers should choose an affordable price-point are not taking into consideration the nature of the apparel industry. The previous commenter that mentioned how in America there are clothing options for people of varying socio-economic status failed to consider that companies like Walmart or Target are able to sell cheap products because they typically outsource to countries like Bangladesh and China where workers are paid a measly wage for their efforts. The retail chain system in North America heavily depends on outsourcing which many times involves poor working conditions for factory workers in developing countries. Apparel companies that “produce for the masses” do so by yielding high profit WHILE lowering their costs (employing cheap labour). So we need to factor in all the complexities of the apparel industry when discussing retail in Nigeria.
i really couldn’t agree with you more, the nigerian work ethic is different to those in Asian countries, designers in Nigeria already have problems with work fore as some nigerians are unreliable and with a stable salary are unmotivated to produce their best work. you don’t consider how many times a designer will have to cut a dress and if the tailor does not do that stitching properly that outfit cannot be sold. nigeria does not have the infrastructure in place to have a high street yet, and what are the chances if nigeria had a developing high street that it will be supported by the middle class. if they put their prices at 60k for a satin dress, then i expect that the material has been imported and what is in store is their very best. not every one can afford prada, and its wasnt marketed to be that way either.
And who says tailors in the naija fashion industries get paid well, is 14k a month not the same as an average of a dollar a day or less they pay the ones you have mentioned. Pls do the math!
Sitting down and reading all the comments surely enlightens one.
I am an aspiring Fashion and Accessories Designer recently relocated from the UK. My previous shaded mindset about Nigeria has or is been perfected.
The Nigerian culture is one that breeds lots of Fakes and Optimists. We front a particular Image at the expense of proving we are better than Mr & Mrs Jones next door. So what do we expect??? The emergence of various professions or businesses that would further help feed these appetites or excesses. In understanding a problem, it’s best always studying the root cause before finding its Solution.
I hope to build a Brand that helps Eradicate Poverty not just in Nigeria but Africa as a whole. A brand that serves the average Nigerian’s Fashion appetite ( My point of entry been Affordable Fashion). A Replica of Topshop to be precise.
In conclusion If the likes of LDA, Tiffany Amber and Co do decide to enter the Market by branding themselves as Luxury Fashion, guess that’s good for them as long as their products are justifiable (Quality, Unique and Distinctive).
Concentrate on your brand and be focused. Dont look right and dont look left because naijas will deceive you that they earn what they dont earn. Imagine a tailor in somolu claiming to be earning 100k a month when there are cheap tailors all littered about, just to make themselves feel better. In naija, most pple lie to themselves to make them feel better so if they dont say that what is the will to carry on sewing clothes. Everyone on facebook saying they have a brand collecting orchestrated awards blah, blah. Girl, pls focus on your plan and it will come to fruition by his grace. Best Wishes
@diva whisperer: thnx fr d info. Lukd up her profile on facebook n ws rly impressed with what I saw there.d prices r oh so cool. U do well!
Wt most of dese local designers fail to realise is makin ‘luxury’ products wv exhorbitant prices won’t make u soo rich or a force to reckon wv.take Zara for exampe,deir products ar of good quality,fashionable nd affordable.u can get a Zara handbag @ deir store for as low as £35-£40.still d owner is ranked as d 4th richest man in d world wv d likes of Armani nd Chanel nt in d top 100.my point is ur products don’t av to be ‘luxury’ wv price tags dt can feed a family for months for u to make profit,y is Primark soo big nd expandin everyday in UK?cos deir stuffs ar cheap nd affordable even tho’ d quality isn’t ‘immaculate’.luxury or nt,immaculate or nt,dese clothes will fade or go out of vogue.ow can u sell an ankara dress for ova 40k nd d ankara isn’t even hollandis @ least?lyk most ppl here,I copy d so called ‘luxury’ styles nd my tailor does a fabulous job wv ankara of berra quality sef.
insightful i must say… But kudo’s to all Nigerian designers and emerging designers… In this nation of ours, its not easy… all opinions noted
Someone once said to me, Luxury sells itself! Also, water always finds its level! These are 2 important ways to look at Luxury in Fashion. The truth is consumers need to adjust their phyche. Naturally, if you want exclusivity and lovely finish, you need to pay! However, there are always options if you cannot there is affordable luxury, highstreet, mass market. All offer different benefits to the consumers. You need to be objective when criticizing Nigerian Designers, costs are generally high. i do believe designers should be more practical is their approach to selling though, Be cost careful! More importantly, buyers/sellers its about cost/benefit! If it fits the bill why not!
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Overpriced! Their clothing photographs well until you buy one, either the fabric is low end or the finishing sucks. Disgrunteld customer. I prefer to buy high end foreign brands from now on till you all get your act together. I really tried to support the cause but not at the risk of my hard earned cash. I like to buy classic pieces that last for years and shoddy substandard jobs only last a wear or two, so no more, thanks! Fool me twice… Quit fooling your selves and focus more on your craft that being socialites please. I am your target market and you have disappointed me! F the typos, I’m annoyed.
every one keeps talkin abt luxury goods produced by our designers but nobody is talkin about the fact that the cost of production in Nigeria is high. most of them bring their raw materials from foreign countries not to talk of the production cost here which is crazy. the truth is even foreign designers have moved their production to china and with the kind of economy and government we hv, we can’t possibly compete in terms of pricing with foreign designers or with china produced goods. that is the reason why u can’t find a Nigerian designer focused on the ready to wear market like H$M and atmosphere etc.
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